Surfing Out of the BoxSeptember 2010
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Paul
Paul is the owner of Sojourner Surfboards in Morro Bay. Contact Paul

Images by Katie Finley of Dunes Street Photography.

Surf

Paul and Daughters

February 13

School's Back In

by Paul Finley

If you have been in the water or looked at any easily accessible break around the Central Coast lately, you will notice the we are sharing the water with a plethora of kids who are pursuing the higher education at one of our local campuses. In no way do I mock or condemn the pupils and future leaders of America in this article, but I think it is an appropriate time in the surf season to look at a couple basic or fundamental pillars of surfing etiquette.

I firmly believe that if you show respect, respect should be returned to you. This applies to more than surfing, but goes a long way in the line up. Having fun is important, and is why I surf. Having fun at the expense of someone else is not appropriate, so sharing waves is key. Although one may be a local, none of us own the water. If you are so agro and possessive of a wave that you resort to abusing others in the line up, I truly do not see how surfing is remotely fun for you. So, here is a small list of some surfing etiquette.


Right of Way

If you are paddling close to the peak and I am paddling out on the shoulder, you have the right of way. I need to stop paddling and allow you to go. An exception to this rule though is if you are paddling close to the peak and you have already missed three waves in a row. I think that the person on the shoulder (me in this example) has the right to paddle for it, because the chances are that the wave will go unridden if I am not going to pull in.

Snaking

If you are sitting in position close to the peak and I weasel my way around you as the set wave comes in order to take off just under you, I just became a snake. Although I technically had the inside position, I only gained it by out paddling you. This is when stink eyes appear and the vibe goes south. I was in the wrong on this wave.

Dropping In

Dropping in is nice on land if you bring something good to eat, but nobody appreciates it out in the water. If you are in the position close to the peak and I am on the shoulder of the wave, when you go and I disregard the Right of Way rule, I have just dropped in on you. This is when you give a hoot or just come up behind me a push me off my board. I am not condoning violence, but if I am ruining your waves, you have to right to clear me out of the way. A little like roller derby of the sea, a gentle tap can go a long way while traveling at higher speeds. A helpful tip to limit the times that you drop in on someone; get in the habit of looking both ways before you pull in. Communication is key as well.

Paddling Around

Paddling around the peak and not through the line up is important. If you are paddling and see another surfer get a wave, try to paddle behind where he is going to be coming down the line. This usually means that you are going to get pounded by the white wash, but that is better than a fin in the back. I have found out that fins go though wetsuits too, so be careful.

Don't Ditch Your Board

If you are paddling out and can't get under the waves without ditching your board, then you have the wrong board or the waves are to advanced for you. There are always exceptions to the board ditching rule. If you are about to get hammered by the lip and the reef is to shallow to duckdive, when you look behind you and there is no one there who is going to get speared, I think I would ditch my board and go into the fetal position. Another example is if you are pulling into a burly one and get hung up in the lip and start to go over the falls, this is an optimal time to try for a long distance relationship with your board. Other than that, board ditching is not a good habit to get into. It is hard on the equipment and it is very dangerous for you and other surfers.

Apologize

I kook it on these rules and don't always perform 100%. I have formulated some very creative excuses through the years, but when you screw up, no excuse is anywhere near as good or effective as an apology. Own up to the mistake and try your best not to repeat it. That's etiquette that works in the water and on land.

Look forward to dropping in on you and saying “Sorry, I don't have my contacts in” soon.


Dunes Street Photography

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