Avoiding a Floating Frustration
by Paul Finley
Trying to decipher what type of surfboard you want to invest time and
money into can be a bit of an enigma for many people. Once you have
been surfing for a while, you will inevitably start to wonder what
other boards would feel like and ponder the endless possibilities.
Surf design was covered in last months article in which the design
aspects of these possibilities were ever so slightly tapped into.
This month's focus is going to put all the design "mumbo jumbo" aside
and look at four basic things to consider before committing to a board
and hopefully help prevent a floating frustration.
Motives
What are the things that motivate you to pursue a certain type of
board? Are pros riding the board that you want? Are they in
magazines? Is it the color or name brand that you are looking for? Is
it in your price range? All these things play an important role in
how we think about what we need for our surfing. The purpose of this
article is not to make anyone feel guilty for desiring a board for
these reasons, but to help consumers make a choice that is going to be
most beneficial to their surfing development.
Skill Level
If anyone has seen me surf, they would know that I am no pro. The
harsh reality is that most of us are not pro surfers, and if all of us
were pros, there would most likely be a category of really good
pros better than all of us "regular pros," putting us all back in the
same category of average. But in hope of holding my self esteem in
tact, I will refrain from calling myself or anyone else average.
Facing the truth about your skill level will help you become a better
surfer. Starting out on a small potato chip of a board will really
decrease the speed of any advancement. Proper flotation and stability, gained through width of the board, are two key factors in achieving a
more rapid progression in surfing ability. Wave count is mandatory to
succeed. If you are not catching waves, you are not surfing. If you
are not surfing, you are not becoming a better surfer. If you can not
catch waves on the board you are riding, it is time to look into
other options. When considering a new board, talk to your shaper.
Allow room for some constructive self criticism.
Style
Appreciate style. Like a fingerprint, endlessly unique, style is our
expression of ourselves on the waves that we ride. All boards require
some form of adaptation to your style. Knowing what board to ride in
what waves to achieve the style of surfing that you desire could
really take a lifetime dedicated to the craft of surfing. Do you like
the flow of smooth speed? Do you like light boards and tight turning?
Do you want to go airborne? Do you want to stay in the barrel? Do
you like the slippy sliding of a wide tail or maybe no fins at all
on a wooden alaia? Do you have nose ride fever, walking the board
like a sidewalk? Knowing what certain boards are really made for will
help alleviate a lot of frustration when they just don't "perform" in
a manner they were not intended for.
Type of Waves
A surfboard is only good if it is out in the water. It seems obvious,
but knowing where and in what waves you plan to be surfing will really
determine the success you have on a board. Some boards are designed
to be good all-a-rounders, but others are specifically designed to
tackle certain waves. At this time in the decision making process it
is really helpful to look at the surfboard not just as a toy but as a
tool. Hammers are good for driving nails or knocking things in or out
of place, but not so good for brushing your teeth or combing your
hair. A surfboard is no different. Used in the right conditions it
will most likely be a magical and joy-filled occasion. Used in the
wrong wave conditions there may be some teeth missing and a
bruised melon. Once again, it is always helpful to be honest with
yourself. Where am I going to be surfing this board the most? What
type of waves am I most likely to be encountering at these spots?
Choose the board (tool) accordingly. Happy hunting!
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